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I am the proud, original owner of a 1994 Jeep Cherokee. I haven't put too many miles on the vehicle since I really love it. That's why I'm upset that there's a problem with the transmission and my mechanic is blowing it off, saying it's nothing. The transmission just suddenly started shifting more often, what I would call gear seeking. It also doesn't shift as early in the RPMs as before, which I find weird. I have trouble believing it's not a big deal and I want a solution. Anyone have ideas?
My Jeep Wrangler, which is a 1994 model, have been burning some oil lately. I got some additive stuff at the store and it said to turn on the engine, then remove the oil filler cap and pour the stuff in. I did exactly what the directions said and my engine just plain died. I put the filler cap back on and tried it again, and as soon as I took the cap off the engine died again. I am totally baffled. Do you know what's wrong with my Jeep?
For awhile now I've been wanting to lift my 2012 Chevy Silverado, the ultimate goal being a 6in lift on 35s. I've talked to multiple businesses about the pricing for this whole ordeal involving new wheels, tires, and the lift, and the price has ranged from $6000 to $4000. Looking further into it, i've discovered it's a real wear & tear on the chevy transmission. Why is it so much easier on a Ford than a Chevy, and why are the prices for lifting the two different brands so overwhelmingly different? After hearing this, I was told a leveling kit with 33s would be a nice option, but I've been stuck on the idea of the lift for so long. Is the lift that bad? What are the pros & cons when comparing a lift and leveling kit, particularly on a newer silverado.
The other day, I dropped off my car to my mechanic's shop for a valve adjustment. They told me it was a 5-hour job, and so I had a friend pick me up so I could get to work. About three hours later, they called and told me the car was ready to pick up. When I go there, my car was ready but the shop was asking for payment for five hours of labor! I was so pissed and let them know I was, but the guy just told me it's the standard rate and so I should be happy they were done with my car early. Did they just pull a fast one on me?
Where I live, it's warm only three or four months out of the year, and it snows like crazy pretty much the rest of the time. I have been swapping tires on my old car, back and forth between snow tires and summer tires. It's pretty expensive and now that I have to buy a new car and take on a payment again, I'm wondering if it's okay to just leave snow tires on all year. Can anyone tell me if there's anything really wrong with driving on snow tires in the summer?
I have been working on a project Mazda Miata, having made some changes to the drivetrain and suspension. One of the last upgrades I'm looking for are some new wheels and tires. I have a lot of people telling me to go with low profile tires. I've stiffened up the suspension quite a bit to improve the car's handling, and so I'm concerned that low profile tires will make the car really uncomfortable to ride in. What do you all think?
I was going to change the oil on my Jeep Grand Cherokee, but couldn't get the filter off. It's crushed from hitting a rock or something like that. The good news is the filter wasn't leaking, but it's been so damaged that my filter wrench can't get a grip on it. I used a strap-style wrench and one of the cap kind, and it still wouldn't budge. I turned to wrenches and other methods, but the filter only crushed more without turning at all. What can I do to get the filter off my Jeep?
I have a 2000 Honda Civic Si. Recently I noticed that the front suspension was riding a little rough and the front tires were wearing unevenly, so I had my mechanic take a look to see what was wrong. Sure enough, the driver's side strut was shot, and when he told me how much it would be to replace it, I just about passed out. My mechanic was honest enough to tell me that the vast majority of the price was for the part, so I started hunting online for a cheaper alternative. I found one that said it was OEM, so I showed it to my mechanic. He refuses to install the part, because it supposedly is "garbage." I don't understand how this could be, if the part is OEM. Anyone understand what's going on here?
I just bought a new Subaru Forester and I really want it to run well. I live in an area where it snows like crazy and they throw piles of salt on the roads, which is really hard on a car's undercarriage. Some people referred me to a guy who treats cars by spraying the undercarriage with a nice coating of old motor oil, which then prevents corrosion. I was surprised by how cheap it is, but the whole thing seems weird to me. Does anyone know if this is a legit way of preventing rust?
I recently took my 1998 Wrangler to a shop to have some routine servicing done. Among the different things they did was change out the transmission oil. After I picked up my Jeep, I noticed it was shifting really rough. I was suspicious about the servicing from the shop, so I checked the transmission oil and it looks different than how I remember it. I thought it was supposed to be brown, but it's red now. Do you think it's possible they put in the wrong oil?